How to choose a kokum butter product that will support the skin barrier

Kokum butter is one of the better ingredients for a compromised skin barrier, and while the skin benefits are based on the butter itself, understanding what to look for on an ingredient label will make sure that you pick a product that will absorb and support the skin barrier rather than just sit on top. If it sits on top it will protect the skin, but it may not go any further, which is what is needed to do the work.

There are two ways to check this.

1. The ten-second test

If you have the product and can try it out, just put a little on the back of your hand and rub it in. Wait a minute.

If it works in and your skin feels basically like your skin again, it's absorbing. If it sits there as a film you can rub off onto something else, it's coating rather than absorbing. Coating is helpful for protection and avoiding water loss, but it's not the same as supporting the skin barrier with the lipids it's made of.

2. The label test

Where is the kokum?

On a label it will typically show up by its INCI (official) name, Garcinia indica seed butter, so that's the first thing to look for. Ingredients are listed by how much is in the formula from most to least, down to about 1%; past that, that order doesn't apply. If you bought it for kokum and it's sitting in the bottom third under a pile of heavier butters and waxes, the kokum isn't likely to give much skin barrier support on its own.

What's carrying it?

Kokum is a hard butter at room temperature, and isn't really usable in skincare unless it's mixed with something lighter that helps it spread and sink into the skin. This could be any oil or more spreadable butter such as squalane, jojoba, shea or cocoa butter, the list goes on.

The important thing to know is this: if the additional ingredient(s) that are making the kokum butter spreadable are heavier and don't absorb well, those may limit how well the kokum butter can work. Cocoa butter is a great example of this. It's an incredibly rich butter, forms a protective seal on the skin, but doesn't really sink in and can stay greasy. If kokum butter is mixed with this, it may limit how well the kokum can work for skin barrier support. Petroleum jelly is similar.

We love kokum butter

Ten-second test, then those two label questions. This works on anything, including Base Layer and Calm Balm. I built these products to pass both of these tests, but we support kokum butter use wherever you find it so if your current product passes both of these tests, we love to hear it.